The Arbaeen March (4)

Welcome to the fourth episode of a 7-part series titled “The Arbaeen March” on the annual gathering in Karbala at the holy shrine of the Chief of Martyrs, Imam Husain (AS), the younger grandson and 3rd Infallible Heir of Prophet Mohammad (SAWA), on the traditional 40th day of the epic of Ashura.

If you remember, yesterday, while presenting to you an eyewitness account of this spiritual journey, we said the pilgrim on entering Iraq via the Iranian border of Mehran, first visited the holy city of Kazemain, north of Baghdad, and after performing pilgrimage to the blessed shrines of Imam Musa Kazem and Imam Mohammad Taqi (peace upon them) the Prophet’s 7^th and 9^th Infallible Heirs respectively, visited the holy city of Samarra, where repose in eternal peace the Prophet’s 10^th and 11 Infallible Heirs, Imam Ali Naqi al-Hadi and Imam Hassan Askari (Peace upon them).

The pilgrim next left for holy Najaf and pilgrimage to the blessed shrine of the Commander of the Faithful, the Prophet’s Divinely-Designated Vicegerent, Imam Ali ibn Abi Taleb (AS), of which we will relate today.

Najaf is the cynosure of the eyes of the faithful all over the world. It is the city where the Father of mankind, Adam, was laid to rest, and where Prophet Noah also reposes in peace. Its significance, however, is because of eternal blessings it achieved, when Imam Ali (AS), on attaining martyrdom, graced its soil, transforming Najaf into the focal point of the faithful.

As I neared Najaf, my heartbeat increased with tears of joy rolling down my eyes. I was entering the precincts of the Gateway of the City of Knowledge. A hadith from the Prophet’s 6^th Infallible Heir, Imam Sadeq (AS), reads: "When the pilgrim visits the shrine of the Commander of the Faithful, the gates of heaven will open for him."

Indeed, the mood of the pilgrims is indescribable as the hearts begin to leap on the prospect of bowing at the threshold of Symbol of Social Justice that Imam Ali (AS) eternally remains. He transcends history and historical developments as the person next only to the Prophet of Islam in merits. As the repository of wisdom and divine knowledge, he was the recipient of special favours from God, Who because of the sincere and selfless services of Imam Ali (AS), continues to shower the Imam’s devotees and pilgrims with the choicest divine blessings. The Imam himself has remarked: "The accumulators of wealth are actually dead even though may be (physically) alive; while the scholars are alive (forever) as long as the world exists. They may be physically no more but their influence (and legacy) remains alive in the hearts."

Imam Ali (AS) had such a lofty position that the people of his times, except for a few, failed to correctly gauge his peerless personality. He says in this regard, "Tomorrow, my unknown attributes will be revealed to you and you will know me after my death and coming of another one in my place."

I finally reached Najaf and thanked God Almighty for providing me this blessed opportunity for pilgrimage to the shrine where the celestial angels descend with divine blessings. 

Najaf is very busy. Once the world’s leading centre of learning until the ungodly Ba’th minority regime destroyed Iraq, the howza or Islamic seminary which was founded almost a thousand years ago by the celebrated Iranian scholar, Shaikh Abu Ja’far Tusi, is undergoing revival. Students from various countries still come here to acquire knowledge. Pilgrims of various Islamic denominations and even non-Muslims come to Najaf to offer their sincere salutation to the person who used to say: “I can judge among the followers of the Torah according to the Torah, among the followers of the Evangel according to the Evangel, among the followers of Zabur according to the Zabur, and among the followers of Furqan (the holy Qur’an) according to the Qur’an.”

I stayed in Najaf nearly for two days. On entering the holy shrine I felt I had reached the safest haven. The spiritual atmosphere overwhelmed me. I couldn't say anything. I remembered the words of the Prophet of Islam, "I am the City of Knowledge and Ali is its Gateway."

The holy shrine of Imam Ali (AS) is in the centre of the city. It is topped by a golden dome, two exquisite minarets, aivans or porches, and courtyards filled with the faithful. The current structure of the shrine was rebuilt over four centuries ago during Safavid era by Shah Abbas of Iran. The main porch is plated with gold and flanked by gold-plated minarets. The mirror work inside the shrine has been done by the artisans of Isfahan. The courtyard has been constructed with an astounding design so that throughout the year, the blessed shrine of Imam Ali (AS) receives direct rays of sun to determine the exact time of noon in summer and winter.

It is narrated from Abu Shu'aib Khorasani that, "I asked Imam Reza (AS) which one is superior, the pilgrimage to (the shrine of) Imam Ali (AS) or that to (the shrine of) Imam Husain (AS)? He answered, 'Imam Husain (AS) attained martyrdom in a tragic and brutal manner with profound grief in the way of God; so, it is obligatory on God that no one goes for pilgrimage to his tomb but God the Exalted removes his grief and returns him happy; yet the superiority of reward for pilgrimage to (the shrine of) Imam Ali over Imam Husain is like the superiority of Imam Ali on (his son) Imam Husain."

In view of this, most of the pilgrims of Arbaeen first perform pilgrimage to the shrine of Imam Ali (AS) in Najaf and then set off for Karbala, mostly on foot. I visited the Grand Mosque of Kufa where Imam Ali (AS) was martyred in its prayer niche while in communion with God Almighty during the blessed month of Ramadhan in 40 AH. I was immersed in tears as I performed the rituals in this hallowed place which was the resident of Prophet Noah and where Imam Ali (AS) used to deliver sermons and judgement during his caliphate or political rule of the vast Islamic realm. I then visited the grand Sahla Mosque, which before the great deluge of the days of Prophet was the home of Prophet Idris or Enoch, and which will be headquarters of Imam Mahdi (AS) when he reappears to establish the global government of peace, prosperity and justice. I prayed at the various spots of the blessed Sahla Mosque, where several Prophets of God including Abraham and briefly sojourned.

RM/AS/ME